Housing

Each bearded dragon requires at least a 40-gallon terrarium. Floor dimensions should be no less than 36in x 18in. Bearded dragons should never be housed together. They will fight over food, light, and territory. They can become very aggressive towards each other and can easily injure or possibly kill one another. If there is a significant size difference between dragons, one could eat the other. Never cohabitate; trust me.

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I prefer front-opening tanks. They make life so much easier. You don't have to move the lights and lid every time you need to do something. They also give your pet a better perspective when you're interacting with them or their environment.

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As for substrate, if this is your first bearded dragon or your bearded dragon is very young, I recommend using paper towels until you have perfected your husbandry. Meaning the temps, lighting, feeding, supplementing, and overall care are all perfect.

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Once you have perfected their husbandry and are ready to move to a different substrate, there are a few good options. I prefer play sand and I find them to be happier with sand. They like to dig, it's natural for them. They like to burrow and lay in the cool sand. Plus, it's much easier to just scoop the poop out! To be clear, play sand, the sand you buy for children's sandboxes, not calcium sand sold at pet stores. Other good options would be flooring tiles or laminate. 

I do not recommend "Reptile Carpet" as it snags their nails and holds bacteria. It is hard to clean properly. 

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NOTE: If your bearded dragon is eating sand on purpose, they're most likely deficient in calcium. Ingesting too much sand can lead to impaction. Impaction and calcium deficiency are very serious and if you suspect either, you should take your dragon to a Reptile/Herpetology Veterinarian for an examination.

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Lighting is the most important aspect of their terrarium. Bearded dragons require UVB and heat. UVB is extremely important because it helps them absorb calcium. Bearded dragons require either a T5 or T8 tube UVB lighting. T5s are ok to be mounted on top of the screen lid. T8s need to be mounted inside the terrarium. Whichever you purchase, make sure the lamp has a reflector and any clear plastic barrier is removed. They should span between 1/2 to 3/4 of the total length of the terrarium. The bulb should be changed every 6-12 months. It's important to understand that although the light may work, it may not be emitting UVB. I suggest buying a UVB tester card to check the UVB light regularly.

 

NOTE: Insufficient UVB lighting can lead to a life-threatening disease called Metabolic Bone Disease.

 

They also need a heat lamp. Heat is important because it warms their blood and helps them digest their food. The heat lamp should be kept on one side of the tank creating a basking spot. The temperature there should reach 100-105°F; younger dragons like 105-110°F. Keeping it to one side will help create a gradient resulting in a cool side on the opposite end being around 80°F. Keeping the UVB lamp closer to the heat lamp helps maintain the gradient. Infrared heat readers are a great way to check that the terrarium temperatures are correct.

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Be sure to watch your dragon as different dragons have different temperature preferences. If your dragon never leaves the basking area, it may be too cool for them. If your dragon never goes to the basking area, it may be too hot for them. Adjust your temperatures accordingly. This can be achieved by adding a dimmer outlet to your lamp. 

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Their basking spot will also require a solid mostly flat platform that absorbs and retains heat. Most of the bearded dragon "hides" made of ceramic or plastic that are sold at most pet stores will work. Pieces of slate, rock, or granite will also work.

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Both lights should be turned off at night. I highly recommend a timer for the lighting so they are turned on and off consistently each day. 12-14 hours of light daily should be sufficient. During the winter months, bearded dragons brumate. Lighting should be cut down to 8-10 hours a day.

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If your home drops below 65°F at night, your bearded dragon will need a ceramic heat emitter. They do not put out any light, only heat. Using a heat source that does produce light will disturb your reptile's sleep pattern and is not recommended.

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NOTE: Never use heat rocks or heating pads for bearded dragons as they can burn their bellies.

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Other things you will need for your dragon include a food bowl, Calcium powder with Vitamin D3, a reptile multivitamin, and a hide/cave/shelter for your dragon. Dragons like to have a safe place to hide when feeling stressed. I like to use larger hides that can help elevate the basking area. They also appreciate cooler surfaces to climb such as hammocks and wood. I use Mopani and spider wood. I recommend researching which woods are safe to use before placing them in their enclosure. Giving your bearded dragon a variety of surfaces is recommended. They will use them to help remove their shed, rub down their pores, and file their nails.

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Decorations are optional but highly appreciated by your dragon. The best part about using a sand substrate is being able to fully cover the terrarium in artificial plants and flowers! My dragons LOVE to climb them and hide on, in, and under their plants.

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Some bearded dragons get stressed when they see their reflection in the terrarium's glass walls. If they are glass surfing or constantly showing stress marks (the markings on their underbelly become darker), try covering the back and sides of their terrarium. Thrive (a brand sold at PetSmart) makes beautiful 3D backgrounds for 40-gallon tanks. Most adhesive vinyl can be used to cover the sides. Adhere it to the inside of the terrarium to eliminate their reflection.

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NOTE: NEVER keep your bearded dragon in a glass terrarium outside. Even if it's under a covered patio or in the shade. Glass insulates heat and will essentially turn the terrarium into an oven.

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Feeding

An adult bearded dragon's diet should consist of 80% vegetables/greens and 20% feeder insects.

A Juvenile bearded dragon's diet should consist of 80% feeder insects and 20% vegetables/greens. They should be fed more often; usually 3-4 times a day. As your dragon grows, their insect-to-vegetable ratio should be moving in the other direction until they reach adulthood. 

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All of their food should be dusted with calcium powder that includes vitamin D3.

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NOTE: Insufficient Calcium or Vitamin D3 intake can lead to a life-threatening disease called Metabolic Bone Disease.

Safe feeders include discoid roaches, superworms, mealworms, black soldier fly larvae, hornworms, wax worms, and crickets.

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NOTE: Superworms should not be fed to juvenile bearded dragons due to their hard exoskeleton which can cause impaction.

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Feeder insects should not exceed the size of the space between your bearded dragon's eyes. Be sure to remove any uneaten insects from the enclosure as they can stress your bearded dragon.

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NOTE: NEVER feed bugs you find outside to your bearded dragon. They could have parasites or have come into contact with pesticides.

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Vegetables are important because they help with hydration and overall nutritional care. My favorite safe vegetables/greens include collard greens, kale, endive, dandelions, prickly pear, mustard greens, and bok choy. If you're looking for something easy and diverse-spring mixes are great! Many more greens are safe but not listed here, so do some research if you want to expand your options!

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Other vegetables and fruits are also safe but should be fed in moderation. My favorites include strawberries, carrots, bell peppers, and apples. All of which should be diced before being fed to your dragon. I purchased a kitchen aid food processor to make my life easier!

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Bearded dragons should be fed a variety of insects, greens, vegetables, and fruits, so mix it up!

 

 

 

Care

Bearded dragons LOVE to soak in fresh warm water. You'll want to use your wrist to make sure the water isn't too hot or cold. I usually fill a storage tub until the water is at the level of the dragon's elbow/mid-bicep. Make sure to do this before placing the dragon into the bin or you may scare them. They will drink the water and usually defecate afterward so be sure to change it after they do!

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Occasional soaking is great because it gives them an additional chance to hydrate. Furthermore, it helps remove any feces that may be stuck to their body. If they have feces that won't come off, a soft-bristled toothbrush can be used to help gently brush it off. Brush in the direction of their scales, base to tip.

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Bearded dragons shed. Never pull their shed off; it can damage their scales. It will come off on its own. They will use the terrarium décor such as slate, branches, and rocks to help them remove their shed.

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Most importantly, find a Reptile/Herpetology Veterinarian nearby. Be sure to take your bearded dragon for a visit if you have any concerns.

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Note: A lot of dragons have pinworms which they typically ingest from feeder insects that carry them. Usually, their immune system will keep them in check, and they won't pose a threat to your dragon. These pinworms are species-specific and should not pose a threat to you either. Stress and illness can cause a flare-up/bloom in your dragon. It's recommended to see a veterinarian in this instance to investigate the situation further.